Freedom Day Visit to the Castle of Good Hope: Continued
A few years ago, I was fortunate enough to visit Cape Town’s own castle, the Castle of Good Hope. In my three-part post series, I reflect on my Freedom Day visit. To read Part 1 of my visit, please see here.
After the Key Ceremony, we gathered around the small bronze cannon, as the two gentleman from the Cannon Association* prepared the cannon. There was a audible murmur of excitement among the crowd, knowing that now, at last, the Signal Cannon would be fired.
* (In partnership with the Castle, members of the Cannon Association restore and ‘rescue’ cannons, preserving them. Some rather ancient ones have even been saved. Even from rubbish dumps where they would otherwise have been left to rust away.)
The gentleman told us that, while he realises it is a fairly strange passion, he and his colleagues are dedicated to the preservation of such historical machinery.
Personally, listening to him speak about his concern for the cannons, I found his passion both touching and inspirational. This was a man who clearly knows and loves his craft.
A Safe, Modern-day Concession for Cannon Firing
The cannon in question was an English gun, a half-pounder from around 1777. Were it still in use today, its true shot would be an 80 gram charge, with a 5-6 metre firing range. (We were briefly shown this before it was carefully put back into a bright red box labelled ‘Explosives’.)
The cannon master – as I mentally dubbed him – gave us an excellent, fascinatingly in-depth verbal explanation on how to maintain and fire the half-pounder. As he spoke, his assistant, John, provided the physical demonstrations.
We learnt how gunners used to have to clean the cannon after the firing of each shot. This was done using various tools such as: the ladle, the rammer, the ‘pricker’ and so forth.
A cloth bag, filled with gun powder, was used in the firing process. While a tool, known as ‘the worm’, was then used to extract the burning remnants from the bag. Thereafter, a sponging tool – which many of us mistakenly assume would have been used for cleaning – was pushed down the barrel and into the chamber to extinguish any burning embers. This was an essential part of the loading procedure as it ensured the gunners’ safety.
Nowadays, they make the charges up in aluminum foil. On this, the cannon master noted: “(This) is, of course, cheating but this is our concession to the modern age of safety.” Before adding: “Aluminum foil does not lie smouldering in the chamber; it doesn’t start bush fires or anything like that.”
Chance to Fire the Cannon Yourself
After that, once the cannon was all but ready to be fired and we had been shepherded away from the firing line, the cannon master indicated towards a cylindrical container, saying that, for a (R100) donation fee, a member of the audience could, with his assistance, be the one to fire the cannon.
On this first occasion – wherein I was standing almost directly behind the cannon – a young boy rushed up with the necessary fee. And, with the cannon master protectively covering his ears, fired the cannon.
The Firing of the Cannon
The boom was quite considerable, so nervous laughter and a few startled exclamations followed its firing. (Honestly, every time I heard it go off hourly between 10:00 am – 12:00 pm, the cannon’s boom only seemed to grow in volume.)
I managed to perfectly capture the firing on video. However, I think it’s something to experience for yourself so I have decided against uploading my video to this post.
Once the smoke had (quite literally) cleared and the excitement had died down, the crowd dispersed.
Embarking on a Guided Castle Tour
Although I noted the ‘Tour Departures’ sign, I wasn’t sure that there would be an official guided tour. (There were a number of unofficial ones though.)
So, with my trusty ‘Gateway Guide’ in hand, I set off to explore the Castle. (I think I did a pretty good job of it too. As, barring the sections that were undergoing extensive renovations, I covered all the map’s main areas.)
First off, I visited the William Fehr Exhibition, housed in the Block F’s Kat Balcony. This beautifully ornate balcony is believed to have been designed by German sculptor and woodcarver, Anton Anreith. Anton and military engineer and architect, Louis Michel Thibault (after whom Thibault Square derives its name) worked on it together.
As you pass, note the VOC-marked 1748 cannon guarding its doors. This cannon was discovered in 1961, when it was brought up in the net of a fishing trawler, ‘George Irvin’.
It was found some twenty-nine miles west south-west of the Cape of Good Hope, where it had lain 1800 feet below the ocean’s surface for more than 200 years. Out of all the cannons I saw at the Castle, this was my firm favourite.
Viewing the William Fehr Exhibition
As with most exhibitions, no photos, touching, smoking, eating and drinking are permitted inside. Also, regrettably, child prams are not allowed in.
There are staff on-hand to monitor visitor behaviour. However, please adhere to the rules and keep an eye on little ones. This exhibition features some seriously antiquated items that, up until this point, have been most well-preserved. Let us keep them that way.
This exhibition features, “fine examples of paintings and decorative arts relating to the Cape…” “It contains a wealth of historical information about the peoples and landscapes of early colonial South Africa. It is one of the most important public collections of artefacts of the period.”
There are some really beautiful and fascinating items on display in the exhibition. Personally, I really enjoyed carefully taking in every inch of it.
The collection was originally lent to the Castle in 1952 by businessman and fine art collector, William Fehr. (However, the local government bought it from him in 1964.)
An Intricate, Antique Long-case Clock
My two favourite items were the antique golden cutlery display and the long-case clock (dated c.1760-1775), made by clockmaker, Gerrit Marcus. Honestly, it’s impossible to adequately describe how intricate and breathtakingly crafted this clock is. You have to witness it for yourself; I was absolutely spellbound by its beauty.
Upstairs, one can find the rather long Anne Barnard Banquet Hall, which seats 101 guests. (Given its length and size, this is easy to believe!) According to our tour guide, it can be rented out for formal functions.
Overall, the William Fehr Exhibition is well worth spending a good half an hour or so viewing. I’m not usually a big fan of exhibitions of any sort but I enjoyed it. I truly think this is one of the finest historical exhibitions around.
Entering the Inner Court
After that, I went across to the Inner Archway and proceeded to the Inner Court. It is not as architecturally stunning as the Outer Court but it is charming in its own respects. I actually think it affords one even better, clearer views of Table Mountain.
Here you find a guidepost indicating: Sally Port, Torture (Chamber), Forge and (Dolphin) Pool.
Entering The Forge
Though I did the first tour of the Castle on my own, I followed behind a unofficial Afrikaans tour group. This helped me assess where I could or could not go and allowed me to glean extra information.
I followed said group to the Forge. (The main tour did not come here, as we were pressed for time. So they are only able to cover the Castle’s main highlights/places of note).
It was dusty and quite dark but I liked seeing the old machinery and implements. In fact, some of my favourite shots of the day were captured here.
(I didn’t go into the Bakery, or Bakhuys, as it seemed to be closed off to the public. However, it is located nearby.)
Reluctantly Entering the Torture Chamber Rooms
After that, I rather reluctantly went into the Torture Chamber. In essence, it’s just two small rooms. One of which is known as the ‘Donker Gat’ (translated, this means ‘darker hole’).
Here, as a means of torture, prisoners were kept in perpetual darkness for months on end. I didn’t even want to peek through its ‘doorway’ – it was too terrifyingly dark.
I entered just as the last stragglers of the group were filing out. Even though, for a few moments, I was alone in the main room – where confessions were extracted from prisoners via various means of torture and brutality – I didn’t sense any spirits. (There are rumoured to be several ghosts that haunt various sections of the Castle.)
However, I did feel most uneasy inside there. So, once I had taken a photo or two, I hurried away from there altogether.
There’s something undeniably chilling about it. Even before you learn of the unforgivable things that once transpired within. I am glad that walls can’t talk, for I would not like to hear the tales these ones could tell…
The Grain Cellar and Arsenal
Next, I visited the Grain Cellar (it has a very narrow passage, so avoid it if you are at all claustrophobic) and the Arsenal in Catzellenbogen (more about this another time).
These are musty and fairly dank, dark sections of the Castle – but there is artificial lighting provided within and they are still interesting to visit. I especially liked the old archways (and cannons) found in and around this area.
Stopping by the Dolphin Pool
After that, I crossed over to the Dolphin Pool. It was undergoing extensive restoration and was thus empty when I saw it.
Still, I loved this section of the Castle. I had no difficulty seeing why Lady Anne used to sit on the balcony that overlooks the pool to sketch.
(The Governor’s old cellars and the former coach house and stables are also in the immediate area.)
There Was an Old Well
From there, I went to check out the old well. It is found in a tiny room just off from the Inner Archway.
After a moment’s hesitation and a quickly uttered prayer, I rather boldly stuck my phone through the protective gate to get a clear, ‘bar-free’ photo of the deep, dark drop below. (Don’t try this at home, folks.)
From there, I went back to the Outer Courtyard, where, as luck would have it, I saw people gathering. (The crowds had really picked up by this time.) Shortly after, it was announced that the official guided tours would be departing soon.
Joining the Official Guided Tour for Round Two of Castle Exploration
After a moment’s deliberation, I decided to join the tour group.
Tours are split into either English or Afrikaans groups based on visitors’ preference/first language. Naturally, I opted for the English tour. (Though, if I go back sometime, I think I will embark on the Afrikaans one. 🙂 )
First-hand Castle Exploration Tips
First though, I feel it’s important to give a few useful hints for exploring the Castle, based on my individual experience.
If you do decide to go on either of the hour-long official tours (and I strongly recommend that you do), be sure to explore on your own before (or even afterwards) for the following reasons:
- It helps you know what to expect;
- There are less (if any) crowds that way;
- You have ample time to take photos, read the Castle signage and wander around at a leisurely pace;
- It really allows you explore each and every nook and cranny;
- You have greater freedom and aren’t limited to what you do/don’t cover on the tour; (For example: If you want to skip the Torture Chamber because you find it ‘spooky’ or disturbing, then do that.)
- You can decide when to fit in the William Fehr Exhibition and the Military Museum.
More in Part 3 of My Castle Series
In the third and final Castle of Good Hope instalment – Part 3 of this Castle series, I include some interesting information (courtesy of our excellent tour guide), while also providing brief historical accounts of the Castle’s rich history.
I also share my experience of and feedback from the tour – and share my fun moments exploring the Military Museum and Leerdam Bastion rooftop, before finally, seeing the Castle’s lovely guest horses.
Many thanks to the Gateway Guide and Castle of Good Hope for the additional information used in this post.
Note: This post was originally published in 2015. However, I have done my best to update it and keep it relevant.
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